Sincerely, what do you folks think about this--

Can you get away with priming a model with a sealant? The only reason I ask is that I have never tried it and I tend to be a sucker for detail. Also, Ive been thinking of initialing my models (on the tab of the mini). Im just trying to avoid priming everything before paint...and I am genuinely curious if this can be done. If I prime, the paint will lift if the model is ever removed from the base, but if I seal/initial/seal,prime the figure on its base, and paint I could avoid damage to an unseen marking.

Now, I know you can seal a model umpteen times and still paint over the sealant, but is it viable to to use the sealant as a primer??

Thoughts/suggestions/hired/fired??

I don't see why not. it might not be as good as a good can of actual primer (I mean the good stuff not the stuff I use) but it should do the same job.

You could put masking tape over the tab, prime the model, then remove the tape, make your mark on the tab then gloss varnish it.

Are you worried about people stealing your models and rebasing them? If not, then just initial under the base.

Not so much, Andy. Its just something Ive wondered about for awhile.

In my very considerable exprience with cheapskate methods of modelling, I'd have to see the sealant - a good idea would be to test it on foam or cardboard and do some tests for lifting. I've found all sorts of wierd aerosals and paint on substances that work as primer, even if not intended, so it might work - but it's down to the specific product.

I've often seen tips on painting the extremely epensive resin models produced by an offshoot of a certain company (you know the one ) that advise a quick coat of varnish before priming cuts through their notorious mould release and gives their spray paint undercoat something to adhere to. Personally I never bothered with that and just went straight to proper car primer, so like Viridian Goblin says test it on a spare mini/surface first.

I find cheap spray primer actually works quite well as long as the mini is clean. it is something most overlook. wash you minis first it helps.

I have been painting a lot at night and the lights absolutely blow chunks in this house, so if I could just use a sealant, I could see the detail on the minis a bit better, me thinks...but yea, I usually use any flat spray paint, usually black, white, or gray.

Super cheap 69 cents - 1 dollar.

The problem with so many layers (2 layers of sealer, primer, paint and then sealer again) is that it will definitely obscure finer details. Even if you are super carefully about the amount you use for spraying...

Plus I doubt that even a double layer of sealer will prevent your initials from coming off if you pull them out of the base and refit them... as you will still have to glue them into the slot you will also have to break the glue when removing them, remove the remaining glue before put them back in the new base. This and the actual scrapping against the plastic base during removing the mini will destroy your marking for sure.

So I would suggest to find other ways of marking your minis - maybe scratch your initials into the tab using a scalpel or something like that.

Vulture

The sealant's I've used are designed to be a top layer, not something to be painted on. As such they do not take paint as well as proper undercoat as they do not give a sufficient key

Also, although you might be able to see the detail better than primer, once you start painting that will probably change imo

I think you're asking for a lot of trouble with paint not sticking plus loss of detail so unless you've got a really good reason to do it

Fair enough

you should always ask Ben ... Ben knows everything

A point that wasn't mentioned is that for a primer you want a flat finish surface, it has a porous suface so that paint adheres to it well. A clear sealer, even a flat finish, by definition shouldn't be as porous as flat paint, if it did it would be a cloudy sealer and then not really a good top-coat sealer.

I've been using cheap $0.99 flat black and flat white spray paint from Home Depot or Lowes for about 10 years now and haven't had an issue.

@ Joe - Now you wouldn;t be mocking an old man would you?

not me... I wouldn't do that

Hey...we're right up there with you,Old Dog

I can recall participating in a conversion involving Fluffy over at PP a few years back where this question was asked...well someone asked her if you can paint over sealant. She answered yes,but over the primer. She then went on to explain she would use sever layers of sealant in between coats. So, I got thinking. If you can use it in between layers,why not use it as primer.

Im not entirely convinced it can not be...then again, Im always 'down' to try new techniques.

The day I can paint like Fluffy is the day I'd be happy to use sealer between coats

Yes, you can paint over sealer... I sometimes use this technique myself , especially when trying to paint complex stuff like e.g. tattoos on an already finished area. I don't want to risk to ruin all the effort I have already put into painting the skin of a model with a failed tattoo... so I apply a thin coat of flat sealer to the skin to protect it. Then I paint my tattoo and if it goes wrong I can use a wet brush or cotton stick to remove the paint without any damage to the skin underneath.
But the paint will stick less to the sealer then to a real primer so even when it has fully dried it can be easily removed it that way until sealed again. So I would stay away from using sealer as a primer!

Vulture

Aye...very good points, Sven. Thanks much

@ Ben-- Well I can honestly say that you dont suck as a painter